The village of Tulamben can seem uninviting: the beach is rough black sand and in the dry season the countryside is uniformly brown. But Tulamben's attractions lie beneath the water. The wreck of a World War 11 Liberty class ship, a magnet for divers, lies 30 m from the beach. Experts say 400 species of reef fishes live on the wreck, visited by 100 species of open-ocean pelagics. It's not hard to see why this is probably Indonesia's most popular dive spot. Reach Tulamben by bemo from Candidasa via Amlapura for Rp. 2.000.

Diving

Tulamben Dive Center, PO Box 31, Amlapura 80811

Bukit Kencana Diving Center, Kawasan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran 80361

Ena Dive Center, PO Box 3798, Denpasar,. Prices range from 35 euro for a one-dive day in Tulamben, to 95 euro for a two-dive day off Nusa Penida. A two-dive beginners' course costs 60 euro for two dives, off Tulamben or Cemeluk. Prices include equipment, guides and transport.