The white sands of Kuta are still arguably the best beachfront on Bali. The beach is much cleaner than just a few years ago, although the vendors remain annoying. Kuta is not the fishing village it once was: it is now a booming Pacific resort and its streets are clogged with tourists and traffic during peak seasons. Legian is a bit quieter, less crowded, and more suitable for longer stays, although in many ways it has become an extension of Kuta. Further north, Seminyak, Petitenget and Canggu offer more tranquility.

Kuta proper is the area delineated by JI. Legian, JI. Pantai Kuta, JI. Melasti, the beach front drive and the lanes in between, especially Gang Poppies I and 11. JI. Legian is the commercial hub of Kuta and the stage of many of its restaurants and nightlife. Most of Kuta's big beachfront hotels are in southern Kuta, or Tuban, including the LTI Patra Jasa Bali, Ramada Bintang Bali, Holiday Inn Balihai, Kartika Plaza, Sol Elite Paradiso, and Bali Dynasty.

Legian and Seminyak are northern extensions of Kuta proper along JI. Legian to JI. Basangkasa. Somewhat quieter with cottage-style accommodations, this is where many of the ex-pat designers and long-stay tourists live. The biggest hotels are the Bali Imperial, Jayakarta, and the Bali Padma. There are three ways to reach Legian and Seminyak: through Kuta and JI ' Melasti, then north; from JI. Imam Bonjol, turn west on to A Patih Jelantik at the Pertamina gas station; or from the north via JI. Kerobokan.

Petitenget, Berawa, Canggu, and Seseh are new and quieter continuations of Kuta's beach, easier to reach through Abian Timbul or Denpasar and Kerobokan than through Kuta, as there are no bemos north from Legian. Several large hotels are located in this area: the Oberoi Bali, the Intan Bali Village and The Legian in Petitenget and the Dewata Beach and Bali Sani Suites in Berawa.

Kuta Beach also extends to the south, beyond the airport to Jimbaran. For assistance with tours and tickets, and information on events, contact the tourist information offices at JI. Bakungsari, Kuta Phone 751660 ext. 145, Century Plaza Building, JI. Benesari No. 7, Ground Floor, Legian, Phone 754090, and the Lifeguard Station (Bala Penyelamat Wisata Tirta), JI. Pantai Kuta, Phone755660. A new Tourism Office is on JI. Raya Kuta.

The airport taxi counter is outside customs, near "left luggage". The fares are set here, but buy a ticket from the counter for the sedan taxis. Metered taxis operate outside the airport. Make sure they start the Argo meter before you take off.

If you want to take a bemo, you have to walk out to the main road as far as the impressive white charioteer statue on the corner (about 1.5 km). From there you can flag down a blue bemo van-it will take you down to "bemo corner" in Kuta for Rp. 2,000.

In Kuta itself, the usual bemo fare-to JI. Kartika Plaza and Tuban to the south or to A Melasti to the north-is only Rp1000-Rp1,500, although the driver may ask for more. There are no bemos beyond Legian, so to get further north you'll have to charter: bargain hard.

There are rent-a-car and bike agencies on almost every corner in Kuta and "transport?" is an extremely common touts' call. Bargain the price down and check the condition of the vehicle. Suzuki Jimmy's are fun for around $10/day. Kijang jeeps go for $15/day. Try Bali Bahagia Rent Car, JI. Raya Kuta 72X,

Toyota Rent Car, JI. Raya Airport 99X, Tuban. Motorbikes rent for around $4/day. The shuttle bus to the Kuta Central Parking area on JI. Kuta Raya is Rp2000. It makes a circuit through Kuta, where curb-side parking is no longer allowed, so you must park at the central lot and shuttle in.

To avoid the hassle of looking for bemos or renting a vehicle, use the shuttle buses which go to Ubud at 8.30, 10, and 11.30 am, 1, 2.30 and 4 pm and to Candidasa / Padangbai, Kintamani and Lovina at 9.30 am. Contact CV Ganda Sari Transport, JI. Legian, or Perama, JI. Legian. or renting mountain bikes, motor bikes, or push bikes, go to Chi Chat Rent Car on JI. Pura Bagus Taruna (JI. Rum Jungle) or to Warung Bamboo, on JI. Arjuna (JI. Double Six). The price is $1/day or less for longer periods. Always check the bike before riding away.

Nightlife

Bali's nightlife is legendary and these days there are two very different 'scenes', the young boisterous crowd that dominates the Kuta circuit and a cooler, slightly older crowd that frequents the nightspots in Legian and Seminyak.

In Kuta the Hard Rock Café on JI. Raya Pantai Kuta and the Macaroni Club on JI. Legian offer a good start to any evening out with their international menus, excellent cocktails and ideal vantage points for people-watching. For those who like it a bit camper, Hulu Café on JI. Legian has a funky and always busy bar with outrageous drag shows on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Peanuts, on Jl. Legian, has been a Bali institution for years and still attracts a busy crowd to its dance floor and enormous bar. For late night revelers, the Sari Club and nearby Paddy's, both on JI. Legian, offer loud dance music and a packed house until the wee hours.

The Legian and Seminyak crowd tend to start the ball rolling with sunset drinks on the beach at Zanzibar or the Soda Club, both at the bottom of JI. Double Six, followed by dinner and further drinks at Café Luna or the Jaya Pub, all on JI. Raya Seminyak. Much of the Legian action happens in and around JI. Dyana Pura. Here the A Bar has an extensive cocktail menu and is hugely popular with the local expat crowd. Further down the street, the Q Bar and Café Del Mar offer more of the same; great drinks, good company and pumping music.

As the night wears on, the Kuta and Legian scenes both converge on the island's most famous nightspot, Double Six Disco. Right on the beach, this perennial favorite with both foreigners and locals offers open-air revelry until dawn. Many restaurants and bars feature after dinner video or laser disc movies, including: Krakatoa, J1. Raya Seminyak 56; a favorite haunt of old Kuta hands, Rum Jungle, JI. Werkudara; very Oz, Bounty, JI. Legian; Norm's, A. Legian, features world sports; Taman Sari, Gang Poppies II; Topi Kopi, JI. Werkudara, has satellite TV specials.

Shopping

Kuta is a shopper's paradise. This is partly because it's an important manufacturing center of summer wear, jewelry and decorative handicrafts which are exported all over the world. Most of the goods are designed by young expatriates from Europe, the USA or Japan.

The best area for shopping is J1. Legian, JI. Bakungsari, JI. Melasti and nearby back lanes such as Poppies I and II. Some of the best deals, though, can be made as far away as Seminyak. Before buying, check everything carefully because goods are not returnable. Beware also of "antiques", as most are fakes.

Kuta has also several department stores. On the down market side Supernova, near the post office on JI. Raya Kuta, offers casual T-shirts, flashy purses and jewelry, while the big Plaza Bali on JI. Raya Kuta has kiosks offering the whole range of Indonesian handicrafts such as batik, ikat textiles and designer clothes. The best department stores for that one-stop-shop are the Matahari stores. There is one on Jl. Legian, one in Kuta Square and another in Mal Bali Galleria on the roundabout on the Sanur By-Pass. As well as ladies, gents and kids clothing departments, they all have supermarkets attached. You will also find the Gramedia Book Store in Mail Bali Galleria as well as the Periplus Book Store.

Kuta offers the whole range of clothing prices and styles, from gaudy T-shirts to exclusive designer cloths. Always check the quality of costly items to ensure you don't get export remnants. Branded goods are not always authentic. Counterfeit items are abundant in small shops, bargain hard. In designer outlets, don't expect more than 10 or 20% discount. Items with price tags are not always exempt from bargaining. A good tailor shop is Aneka Tailor on JI. Kartika Plaza, Gang Melati 7. They will copy or make almost anything to order from suits to shoes for men and women. They have a large stock of different fabrics and leather and offer a speedy service.

The established manufacturers generally have more than one outlet in Kuta and Legian. Check out Uluwatu for cut-lace women's wear at one of several locations: JI. Legian, JI. Bakungsari, JI. Pantai Kuta, and Gang Poppies 11. Rascals in Kuta Square carries batik swim sets with matching sarong, costume and accessories. Animale is a huge ladies clothing store in Kuta Square, set out over three very stylish floors. Huge bright collections of day, night and beach wear.

The Balinese partiality for the shiny and the glittery has inspired flashy sport wear and dazzling footwear, like that found at Meidy Collections on Jl. Legian Kaja 458B and JI. Pantai Kuta 23B, and Dynasty at JI. Raya Seminyak 496 and JI. Legian Kaja. A Mica Bali, Jl. Legian 286 has ladies' wear and trendy sandals. A. Dyana Pura has a number of small shoe shops that will also make shoes to order. Try Desperado for some outrageously funky as well as more sensible styles. Muti on JI. Legian Kelod 402 has flashy footwear at reasonable prices. Kaya Gaya, JI. Basangkasa 1, has shoes, bags and jewelry with an emphasis on embroidery and beads.

Colorful children's wear is popular throughout Kuta these days. One of the originators is Kuta Kidz, JI. Legian at Bemo Comer, with a classic collection of fun and sun wear. The second outlet is on JI. Legian Kelod. Indigo Kids and OK Kids are on Jl. Pantai Kuta, across from Made's and next to Kentucky Fried Chicken, respectively. Do Re Mi Kids, A. Pantai Kuta 194 also has a wide range. Bali Beach Kids in Kuta Square Block C-25 features children's beach wear.

The Kuta Kidz name has now been reclaimed by the licensee in 2007. The original owner and designer have had to change their name into Pokito (girls) and Qii (boys). They still have one shop on the Bemo Corner under the new name, and others in Jl. Bakungsari (Jl. Singosari) Kuta and Jl. Dyanapura in Seminyak. To make it confusing the licensee is currently using the name Kuta Kids on Bemo Corner as well. The name might be the same, but this is absolutely no guarantee that the quality of the products will be the same too, as the producers of the original Kuta Kidz had to adopt their new names after 20 years of using the Kuta Kidz brand.

For the teen set, Bouncy Wear, JI. Basangkasa 1142, Seminyak, has a colorful range of knit clothing. Body & Soul NYC at Kuta Square 32D and Jl. Legian has trendy fashion, Lycra pants, shirts, and bright prints.

Surf Wear is the rage in Kuta now. Stop in Spyderblit on JI. Pantai Kuta, King Kong, Jungle Surf on JI. Legian (opposite Logi Mini Market), Bali Barrel, JI. Pantai Kuta and Jl. Legian, or The Curl on J1. Legian Kelod 191. Get colorful shorts and T-shirts at Lost Boy or Amphibla, JI. Legian. Joe's Surf Shop, JI. Pantai Kuta 29D is owned by one of Bali's original surfers, I Made Darsana. Baik-Baik on Jl. Raya Kuta has colorful cotton print shirts and trendy pants. Mr. Bali on JI. Legian has fancy shirts, military bermudas and checkered shorts; or try Mr. Bali's brother, Mr. Bali Gozeng on JI. Bunisari. The two giant surf wear brands Billabong and Quiksilver both have stores on JI. Legian and sell everything from watches and jewelry to the latest designs in surfboards. Surfer Girl also on JI. Legian is a huge shop selling everything for the beach girl.

Mambo Surf Deluxe Store, JI. Melasti 34 and JI. Legian Tengah 419, has Mambo brand T-shirts under license, cheaper than overseas. The Surf Shop, JI. Legian 94, has labels including Uluwatu and Kuta Reef, along with T-shirts, bermudas and glasses. Rusty Surf Shop, JI. Legian 462, has imports from Australia * Dreamland Surf, Kuta Square D24, has another range. Bali Design, Gang Poppies II and JI. Legian, has surf wear at more reasonable prices.

Leather is big business in Bali. Bags, belts and footwear can all be found along JI. Legian. Some designs incorporate plaited rattan, dubbed "jungle Gucci." Among the notables: Gocko, JI. Legian 406; Natural Leather Station, off JI. Legian near Legian Banjar Kelod; Orlando Leather, JI. Legian. For leather handbags, Site Fashion, JI. Legian 373 or Bella, JI. Leglan 166; Inti Kulit, JI. Laksmana 117; Asia Baugs Leather, JI. Kartika Raya.

You'll find many "antique" stores in Kuta. Be very wary of your Balinese finds: many objects aren't genuine. Most genuine antiques have disappeared, but it's still possible to buy good pieces between 25 and 40 years old from Bali, Java, Kalimantan, and Nusa Tenggara. Hand-woven textiles, ikat, from many ethnic groups are authentic and a good value. Look for natural dyes, as opposed to brighter chemical dyes for traditional quality.

Souvenir

For T-shirts with a difference, Pusaka, JI. Legian 288 and JI. Pantai Kuta 20D, has batik motifs. Eiger Adventure, JI. Bakungsari 18D, carries humorous C-59 Indonesia designs. Joger Art Shop, JI. Raya Kuta, specializes in T-shirts with Indonesian sayings, crafts and oddities you won't find anywhere else. Wisnu Garment on JI. Legian 163 has interesting T-shirt designs at low prices. The place to buy original design T-shirts is Tony's on A. Bakungsari 53 or JI. Legian III.

For bric-a-brac visit the Kuta Art Market on JI. Bakungsari by the beach, where you can bargain for T-shirts and an endless variety of carved animals, wind chimes, imitation banana trees, shells, and batik. There's a similar market on JI. Melasti and numerous stalls along J1. Raya Kuta. If you don't like bargaining, go to Alex's, JI. Legian 78, or Surya Jaya, JI. Legian 61, for batik, blankets, baskets and interesting small souvenirs. Also check out Joger on .11. Raya Kuta. They have interestingly designed pottery, terracotta and wooden artifacts.

For higher-quality items try House of Yanies in Kuta Square for a collection of some of the finest gifts and home wares that Bali has to offer. For those in need of ethnic-but-cheap souvenirs, the Timor Art Shop at JI. Legian Kaja 423A has the solution. Starting from about $1 they sell containers, bamboo or rattan statues, ikat and other items from Timor, Sumba, Lombok, and Maluku.

Mayang Bali at Kuta Square A12 is a virtual department store for Thai-crafted gold jewelry. A floor of souvenirs is located upstairs. Most large hotels have jewelry shops. Jonathan, JI. Legian; Mirah, JI. Tunjung Mekar 81 or .11. Petitenget in Kerobokan; Mario's Silver, JI. Raya Seminyak 19; and Yusuf's, JI. Legian 85, are the best places for fashionable designs and quality work. Suarti Design Collection has outlets at Gang Poppies 11, Jl. Legian 404 and in Mastapa Garden Hotel on JI. Legian. Attractive accessories (bracelets, earrings and brooches) can be found in many shops. Try Kaya Gaya, on JI. Basangkasa 1, Seminyak. Grace Shop, JI. Legian Tengah 435, offers stone and beach necklaces. Its outlet next door has aluminum and silver statues and ikat textiles.

Rumah Manis and Nacha, both in Seminyak, have great original wares such as fruit baskets, tea sets, dinner sets and vases. Nacha also has soaps, incense and aromatic oils. For Lombok pottery, try Lombok Pottery Center on JI. Legian 408 which brings earthenware direct from the Lombok Craft Project villages where products meet New Zealand Department of Scientific and Industrial Research standards for food safety. There are many similar shops along JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai, but standards cannot be guaranteed.

Money

Automatic Teller Machines. ATMs are abundant and found at banks, Matahari Dept Store on JI. Legian, Kuta Center and Kuta Square. Most accept bank cards linked to international networks.

Money Changers

Kuta has a great number of money changers. Most money changers are open daily, mostly until late at night. Rates differ, so shop around. Check the money changer's calculations yourself with your own calculator.

Water sports

Kuta and Legian have long been surfing areas. The 6 km beach break stretching from Kuta to Petitenget has a range of waves. Speak to the experts at Kuta's surf shops: Jungle Surf, Rip Cud, Bali Barrel, Tubes and The Surf Shop. The owners are all avid surfers and have up-to-the-minute surfing reports and tide charts which are essential for negotiating the tricky currents.

The School of Surf JI. Double Six on the beach (next to the Soda Club) provides surfing lessons for the uninitiated. $35 for a one day lesson, Japanese and Australian instructors.

The currents at Kuta are extremely strong and the undertow is dangerous. Swimming is at your own risk. There are markers to indicate no-swim areas, but no sea markers to indicate safe distance from the beach. There are lifeguards at the Kuta Lifesaving Club at the end of JI. Pantai Kuta, but not along the beach. Drowning is not uncommon.

Bali's first water park, Waterbom on JI. Kartika Plaza, Tuban, is more than an amusement park with its variety of pools, "rides", and slides in a beautifully landscaped environment. Open 9 am-6 pm.