Located to the southwest of Tabanan, Krambitan is a small town which was once the center of a small principality. Its court culture is retained in the area's particular styles of dance and painting. A branch of the current Tabanan royal family owns the two palaces here.

The main attraction here, besides the quiet, everyday village life, is to order your own dinner and calonarang trance play performance in one of the palaces, which also offers rooms for rent. The whole village participates in these shows," and members of the royal family welcome you as their guests.

To get there, continue west from Tabanan until you see an intersection and a road to the left with a sign indicating "Krambitan 5 km."

Accommodation

The puri (palaces) of Krambitan have opened their doors to tourists who wish to experience life in a Balinese palace. The Puri Agung Wisata has cheaper rooms, but the Puri Anyar is recommended. Don't expect hotel-style service, however, as the palaces have no trained staff-which actually adds to their charm.

Puri Anyar Krambitan. 9 rooms. The saren bungalows are where the royal family used to live, so this is not a typical hotel. They prepare lunch and dinner for 25 and 35 euro, respectively. The Puri Anyar stages fantastic torch lit dance dinners on request or for the big Nusa Dua hotels. They also offer village cultural tours and kite flying parties. 75 euro with breakfast.

Beebees Restaurant and Bungalows. 6 bungalows in Tibubiyu, Krambitan. Bungalows set in lush tropical greenery with ocean and village sounds harmonizing in the distance. Very peaceful. 21-25 euro, including fruit and breakfast.

Western beaches

A number of small new resorts have recently been opened on the beaches west of Tanah Lot:

• Bali Wisata Bungalows, Yeh Gangga Beach, Sudimara village, Kecamatan Tabanan.12 rooms. Swimming pool. 35 euro, including tax, service and breakfast.
• Balian Beach Bungalows Lalang Linggah, Selemadeg, Tabanan, 12 small bungalows. 50 km west of Denpasar; look for the sign past the Soka Indah Restaurant. Set amidst a coconut plantation, the rooms face the Balian River, 33 m from the beach. Bob Monk house, the manager, knows a lot about the area. Great surfing. Swim in the river. Small bar and restaurant. 10-30 euro, including tax and service.
• Sacred River Retreat Lalang Linggah, Selemadeg, Tabanan. 14 rooms. Pegged as an "alternative resort," designed for relaxation, contemplation, inspiring the soul and experiencing the "real Bali." Inclusive package includes transfers, bungalow, meals and drinks (excluding bar), massage, body scrub, guided tours, culture performance, healing ceremonies and local rituals. Vegetarian restaurant, pool, seminar room, yoga and meditation room, massage salon, waterfall, beach 200 meters away. Starts at 25 euro per person. Inclusive package, 2 nights 216 euro. Kids under 5 years 50% discount, free for third child under 5.

Shortly before Tabanan on the main highway from Denpasar a signboard directs you southwest to Tanah Lot. Alternative access if north of Legian, turning west toward Canggu, following the signs to Tanah Lot. There are a number of shops and restaurants nearby. Tourists congregate at this Balinese landmark by the busloads at sunset.